Expert Advice

3 minute read

Sun spots, dark marks, age spots, liver spots — no matter what you call them, they’re signs of skin damage. So what can you do when hyperpigmentation starts showing up? The right ingredients make all the difference.

Board-certified dermatologist Sandra Lee, MD (aka Dr. Pimple Popper) shares the top ingredient recommendations for fading dark spots for brighter, more radiant-looking skin.

1. Retinol

Best for: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, sun damage, uneven texture

What it is: an antioxidant derived from vitamin A that accelerates skin cell turnover and inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production

Common form: cream or gel

Benefits: reduces dark spots over time, smooths skin texture

Availability: over the counter (retinol) or prescription (tretinoin)

Side effects: possible redness, peeling and irritation during initial use

Works well with: hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, hydroquinone

Try it: SLMD Retinol Resurfacing Serum

2. Vitamin C

Best for: brightening dull skin, reducing environmental damage, fading sun spots

What it is: an antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and inhibits tyrosinase production

Common form: serum, toner, gel, cream

Benefits: brightens skin and lightens dark spots over time

Availability: over the counter

Side effects: higher concentrations may cause irritation

Works well with: glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid, niacinamide

Try it: SLMD Vitamin C Serum, Facial Moisturizer

Dr. Pimple Popper's Dark Spot Solutions

Retinol Resurfacing Serum

Nighttime Clarifying Treatment

AHA/BHA Swipes

Resurfacing Treatment Pads

Vitamin C Serum

Daily Brightener & Antioxidant

Daily Moisturizer with SPF 15

Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Sunscreen

Plump, Prevent & Protect

Anti-Aging Trio

Glycolic Acid Body Scrub

Resurfacing Body Exfoliant

3. Glycolic acid

Best for: exfoliating dark spots, improving overall skin tone

What it is: an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that penetrates into skin’s outer layers to dissolve dead cells and stimulate new cell growth

Common form: cleanser, serum, toner, cream

Benefits: exfoliates darker pigmented areas, refines texture

Availability: over the counter and in-office chemical peels

Side effects: may cause irritation, peeling, redness, increased sun sensitivity

Works well with: vitamin C, salicylic acid, lactic acid, retinol

Try it: SLMD AHA/BHA Swipes, Glycolic Acid Body Scrub, Glycolic Acid Body Lotion

4. Kojic acid

Best for: melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, overall brightening

What it is: a fungi-derived AHA that inhibits tyrosinase, slowing melanin production

Common form: serum, toner, cream

Benefits: exfoliates darker pigmented areas and reduces dark spots over time, reduces inflammation

Availability: over the counter

Side effects: may increase sun sensitivity; may cause irritation

Works well with: vitamin C, salicylic acid, retinol

Try it: SLMD AHA/BHA Swipes

5. Niacinamide

Best for: inflammation-related dark spots, skin barrier support

What it is: also known as vitamin B3, helps prevent melanosomes (packets of melanin) from depositing in skin cells

Common form: serum, toner, cream

Benefits: brightens, reduces inflammation, strengthens skin barrier

Availability: over the counter

Side effects: may cause irritation and redness in sensitive skin

Works well with: vitamin C, retinol, sunscreen

Try it: SLMD AHA/BHA Swipes

6. Hydroquinone

Best for: stubborn hyperpigmentation requiring a prescription

What it is: a powerful melanin inhibitor that prevents tyrosinase from producing excess pigment

Common form: cream or ointment

Benefits: reduces dark spots over time

Availability: prescription only

Side effects: may cause irritation; rarely, increased pigmentation if not used correctly

Works well with: retinoids and hydrocortisone

7. Tranexamic acid

Best for: melasma, inflammation-related pigmentation

What it is: a synthetic version of the amino acid lysine that reduces melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and may decrease blood supply to melanocytes

Common form: serum, toner, cream, oral medication

Benefits: reduces dark spots over time, soothes inflammation

Availability: over the counter and prescription pill

Side effects: possible irritation and redness

Works well with: vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol

FAQs about treating dark spots

Q: Which ingredient works the fastest for dark spots?

A: Hydroquinone (available by prescription) is one of the most potent options, but retinol, vitamin C, and glycolic acid also deliver visible results with consistent use.

Q: Can I combine multiple brightening ingredients?

A: Yes, but start slow. Some ingredients, like niacinamide and vitamin C, or glycolic acid and retinol, work well together, but they may be best used on alternate days or AM/PM to minimize irritation and maximize benefits.

Q: How long does it take to see results?

A: Results vary, but most people notice improvement in 4–8 weeks with consistent use.

Dr. Lee's Last Word

Dark spots can be stubborn, but the right skincare ingredients can make a big difference. Whether you’re targeting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or sun damage, consistency is key. Find the right combination that works for your skin and always wear sunscreen to prevent future discoloration.